Do we really need to classify types of masculinity anymore? Have contemporary dress codes really changed, or are we merely blinded by the communication strategies of the fashion system? Men’s fashion weeks have proven that the focus is increasingly shifting to menswear. While fashion weeks in London and New York remain silent, Milan and Paris, on the other hand, confirm the focus but reduce the fashion week calendars to 4 and 6 days respectively.
Loewe Men’s Spring Summer 2024 Collection
The work on the slender silhouette is carried on by Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, which lifts the waist of pants, slimming the male figure with ordinary men’s garments that become increasingly extraordinary with feminine elements and connotations such as the glittering swarovski crystals that covered early looks and the new shortened proportions for the male torso
Louis Vuitton‘s highly anticipated fashion show-with the debut of Pharrell Williams as creative director of the menswear division-reconfirmed everyone’s expectations. The result was a show that was in fact a reunion spectacle for stars (as well as loyal friends of the creative director) who attended and delivered spectacular performances for an evening in which the Pont Neuf became a symbol of the city (and metaphorical for the collection) for an evening.
Dior Men’s Spring Summer 2024 Collection
Dior Men shifted its focus from the New Look to the New Wave with Kim Jones’ anniversary celebration of five years at the French Maison. “This analysis on silhouettes a culture that we inherited from the past of women’s fashion that we applied to the present of men’s fashion,” explains Jones “And for the first time in our collections, it’s a collage of influences from different predecessors and eras of Maison Dior that we wanted to pay homage to at the same time.”
Rei Kawakubo’s SS24 collection for COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS was something different to say the least. Utilising deconstruction and reconstruction, the brand’s looks were expertly tailored yet simultaneously unconventional, featuring feathers, mesh, and even hair. The cherry on the top of the whole collection was CDG’s footwear which has gone appropriately viral since the show: you’ve heard of having two left feet, now CDG gives us two right feet as well.
Acne Studios Men’s Spring Summer 2024 Collection
For SS24, Acne Studios invited us on their ‘Grand Tour’, a show updating the 17th century sightseeing wardrobe for the modern day. Featuring items and looks embedded in a variety of cultures, the collection sure did take us on a tour through its unique colours, textures, and styles. Fluffy jumpers, electric colour schemes, and patchwork pants acted as an ode to travellers and their distinct identities.
ST. NIAN PARIS Men’s Spring Summer 2024 Collection
A world where justice and equality are reality. The courage never to lose hope, together with the profound act of rebellion that shakes consciences and becomes, once again, a manifesto. A light in the forest to follow to believe again, always. The man of Nihan Buruk, St Nian Paris Creative Director, is like this: he proceeds along a path that, ideally, illuminates and shows the way. His manner is firm and carries the transposed echoes of a rebellious but spectacular nature, with 50s rock accents that from the American coast, are now to be found in the heart of Paris. It is the memory of a revived Elvis that shines in the precious taste for embroidery that runs through all the items in the collection, among trees and nightingales, roses and flower buds.
Kochè Men’s Spring Summer 2024 Collection
Christelle Kocher bridged the gap between the ease of casual clothing and the prestige of couture for Koché SS24. The collection was an ode to femininity, pulling on soft, delicate aesthetics whilst also being inspired by masculine silhouettes and styles. Soft knit sweaters and tulle shirts over loose cream pants are contrasted with powerful capes made entirely of black feathers. Koché undoubtedly has a piece for every person, in every moment, in every place.
Songzio Men’s Spring Summer 2024 Collection
For Songzio’s 30th Anniversary collection, the brand did not hold back. With a focus on fluidity, the SS24 show titled ‘Pure Rebel’ was a blend of cultures, styles, and aesthetics. Utilising draping, layering, and plated cuts, the collection contrasted loose, light and fluid fabrics with heavy, sculptural pieces to create a variety of looks reminiscent of ancient Korean clothing and armour.
Berluti Men’s Spring Summer 2024 Collection
Parisian brand, Berluti showed its SS24 collection, a blend of contemporary aesthetics and masculine dress codes embodied in a collection that was basically luxury personified. Having initially been established as a bespoke shoemaker, the footwear in Berlutti’s collection was flawless, with square-toed loafers and knitted Shadow sneakers accessorising each look.