Paul Andrew is among the most influential designers on the international luxury accessories scene. Throughout his career, he has collaborated with some of fashion’s most prestigious maisons, including Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Narciso Rodriguez, Alexander McQueen and Salvatore Ferragamo, where he served as Creative Director. Founder of his eponymous label and recipient of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2014, Andrew is recognised for a creative vision that combines innovation, artisanal excellence and a meticulous approach to footwear construction. In 2026, he partnered with Cuoio di Toscana to create a limited-edition capsule collection celebrating the meeting point between contemporary design and Italian manufacturing heritage
He(ART) is described as an encounter between Cuoio di Toscana’s manufacturing heritage and your international design vision. How did this dialogue between tradition and contemporary design shape the creative direction of the collection?
What I loved about this project was that it started with the material rather than a mood board or a trend. As designers, we’re often thinking about the visible parts of a shoe, but the sole is literally the foundation of everything. Cuoio di Toscana invited me to begin there, and that completely shifted the creative process.
I’ve spent much of my career working with Italian artisans, so there was already a shared language and mutual respect. The challenge was to take a material with such a rich heritage and express it in a way that felt modern and relevant. Rather than treating tradition as something to preserve behind glass, I wanted to show how it can continue to evolve. The result is a collection that celebrates centuries of craftsmanship while feeling contemporary, light and wearable.
The collection places the material at its core, elevating sole leather from a technical component to an identity element. How did this perspective influence your approach to design and storytelling within the capsule?
It encouraged me to think differently about what makes a shoe special. Sole leather is usually hidden from view, yet it contributes enormously to the comfort, durability and character of a shoe. There’s something beautiful about taking an element that is often overlooked and giving it a leading role.
From the beginning, I wanted the leather itself to tell the story. The natural beauty, quality and authenticity of the material became the starting point for every design decision. Rather than adding decoration for the sake of it, we focused on construction, craftsmanship and the tactile qualities of the materials. The storytelling became less about surface and more about substance, which feels very relevant today.
The capsule includes models such as Softy, Facet and Intertwist, each defined by different construction techniques and artisanal processes. Which of these approaches best represents your creative language, and why?
I think Facet sandal probably comes closest to my design language because it balances innovation with craftsmanship. Throughout my career I’ve been drawn to creating objects that feel sculptural but remain highly functional and comfortable.
The galvanised heel, encrusted with faceted emerald-like stones has a strong visual identity, but it’s also rooted in traditional shoemaking techniques and meticulous handwork. That combination of precision, beauty and practicality is something I always strive for. Having said that, I love that all three styles express different sides of the collection. Softy celebrates softness and ease, Intertwist showcases the artistry of hand construction, and Facet brings a more architectural point of view.
Both Cuoio di Toscana and your work share a strong focus on craftsmanship, authenticity and longevity. How are these values expressed in He(ART), and how do they reflect your personal vision of luxury today?
For me, luxury today is not about excess. It’s about quality, integrity and knowing where something comes from. People are becoming increasingly interested in how products are made, who makes them and what values sit behind them.
Those ideas are at the heart of He(ART). Every element of the collection reflects the expertise of skilled artisans and the use of exceptional materials. The shoes are designed to be worn and enjoyed for years, not just for a season. That’s something I’ve always believed in. The most sustainable and luxurious object is often the one that remains relevant and beautiful long after it was purchased.
What do you hope people feel or perceive when wearing these designs, and how would you describe the spirit of He(ART) in three words?
I hope people feel a connection to the craftsmanship behind the product. Even if they don’t know exactly how a shoe is made, I think people can sense when something has been created with care, expertise and attention to detail.
I also hope they experience a sense of effortless confidence. The collection isn’t about making a loud statement; it’s about appreciating beautiful materials, thoughtful design and exceptional craftsmanship.
If I had to describe the spirit of He(ART) in three words, they would be:
Authentic. Timeless. Human.
Paul Andrew – He(ART) – Cuoio di Toscana